Harter Fell & Nan Bield Pass Walk from Mardale Head: Route, Map & Parking

The Harter Fell & Nan Bield Pass walk from Mardale Head gives you the opportunity to experience an incredibly remote area that still feels wild. In my opinion it’s one of the best eastern Lake District walks if you like dramatic scenery and want to beat the crowds.

There are actually two Harter Fells. One is near Eskdale (western Lake District), and the other near Mardale (eastern Lake District). My guide is based on the latter Harter Fell near Mardale and takes in the iconic Nan Bield Pass.

What I love is that this hike instantly pulls you into dramatic scenery, heading through endless small streams and waterfalls to begin. The landscape is dictated by the flow of water and evidence of rewilding projects put in place by the RSPB Haweswater and United Utilities are evident all around you.

The iconic Small Water is a beautiful punctuation mark near the middle of this trail, which gives the opportunity for a remote lake swim (or to just sit and take it all in)

The next stage up the Nan Bield Pass gives utterly breathtaking views of Small Water, Haweswater and the surrounding fells from above on one side and the Kentmere Horseshoe and valley on the other.

It isn’t the easiest location to get to. You do need a car, there’s only one road to get there and it does take a while from pretty much everywhere in the Lake District to reach, but it’s well worth the effort.

If you like a sense of solitude, you’ll love this walk. Every time I’ve done it, I’ve only seen a handful of people for the whole time I’ve been on the trail, even though the car park looks much busier.

So let’s get into everything you need to know about this utterly stunning, and unique walk, including my downloadable route map, the best place to park and what you can expect.

Harter Fell & Nan Bield Pass Walk from Mardale Head: Quick Stats

Distance: 7.20km/ 4.4 miles
Elevation Gain: 520m/1,738ft. ascent
Approx Time Needed: 4.5 to 5 hours with stops
Difficulty: Moderate to hard. This is a pretty challenging Lake District hike, due to its rugged and remote setting as well as path finding in parts. Though the Harter Fell from Mardale Head and Nan Bield Pass walk is not exposed, so it’s a really good mountain route to enjoy if you do find exposed heights tough.

Start Point: Mardale Head Parking
Car Park Facilities: None, this car park is very basic and has no toilets, bins etc. Payment for the car park is based on a suggested donation box (£2) which you’ll need cash for.
Route Type: Linear (there and back)

Our Harter Fell & Nan Bield Pass Downloadable Route Map

I’ve included a map for my Harter Fell & Nan Bield Pass Walkfrom Mardale Head through our AllTrails widget. Once you’ve clicked on the map below, you can then download it in a couple of ways.

The first option is to save the Nan Bield Pass route map to your own (free) AllTrails account. You can then download it for offline use and navigate using the AllTrails app on your phone.

If you’d rather have a paper copy, you can save the route as a pdf from AllTrails and print it out. You can also download it as a GPX file and use it with the mapping software you choose. There’s also a Garmin compatible option too.

Harter Fell & Nan Bield Pass Walk from Mardale Head: What to Expect

I love the first section of the walk that takes you to Small Water Tarn, as it feels dramatic from the start. Within not too long at all, you’re unaware of the car park you just left and feel right in the heart of things with the imposing mountains sitting in front of you.

This is one of the really beautiful things on this far eastern fells walk. The sense of quiet and solitude, alongside big, expansive spaces.

The landscape feels alive here as you start to replace a stoney graded path with rocky steps, small stream crossings and switchbacks on the way up to Small Water.

There are plenty of incredible waterfalls to your right which frame this landscape, and you’ll hear water constantly. Be sure to spend a bit of time enjoying the waterfalls themselves (this is one of my favourite parts of this walk).

There are some sections that need your attention as the path is indistinct in places. Just keep an eye on the trail more than your map and keep rejudging it. The trail on this part of the Small Water walk can be slippery, so keep an eye on where your feet are hitting the ground too.

The final section before Small Water feels a little steeper still, but I always think it gives that classic Lake District reveal when you get to the water’s edge.

If you’ve timed it right, the lake will be in the sun as you arrive or at least not shadow). Your best plan here is to reach it earlier in the day as the sun sets behind it.

It’s a pretty beautiful sight as you look over to the Nan Bield Pass and it’s iconic Lake District rock formations that make the landscape so distinctive.

You can walk down to the lake shore very easily on the left hand side. The path to the right takes you on the remainder of the Harter Fell Mardale walk.

If you fancy a dip, my favourite place to swim from is the left hand side as the entry into the water is really gentle. However, there are plenty of easy places to get down onto the shoreline around to the right too (I go into swimming at Small Water in more detail later in this guide).

If you’re stopping the walk at Small Water, then you can return on the same trail you came up on. If this is your end point, I think it’s a really satisfying walk in its own right.

Though if you do have a little extra time, I recommend following the start of the path on the Nan Bield Pass as it doesn’t really add much extra ascent at all and the views from this side of the lake are incredible and well worth seeing!  

If you’re continuing on the walk, you’ll take the trail to the right of the lake shore and start to head up the Nan Bield Pass.

I think that this section is one of the most rewarding in terms of views on the whole walk. As you get higher and higher on the pass, the views back over Small Water just get better and better.

As you get higher still, the views open out to show Small Water and Haweswater Reservoir, alongside fells for pretty much as far as the eye can see (and Lake District weather allows). I love how the landscape starts to change and some of the rock formations that seemed 2 dimensional before start to frame the mountain views around you.

The Nan Bield Pass isn’t particularly difficult to navigate. It’s pretty much a very simple path with some switch backs to the top of the path where it joins the intersections with other trails and the final section onto Harter Fell.

However, like the section between Mardale Head and Small Water, I would recommend paying more attention to the path and making decisions based on what looks right rather than your map, as there are some sections that are more indistinct than others.

You’ll know you’ve reached the top of the Nan Bield Pass when you arrive at the stone shelter with fairly faint directions marked on it for the different routes you can take from there.

I think reaching the top of the Nan Bield Pass is one of the most rewarding and stunning views in the Lake District. On one side, you have the views you’ve been looking down onto the whole way up the pass. But on the other side, the Kentmere Reservoir views open up, and show the Kentmere Horseshoe too.

The first time I saw this view it took my breath away, and the fact that this trail is so quiet, just makes it feel pretty magical. Even a few times later, I still don’t think it gets old.

From here, the remaining climb to Harter Fell Mardale is a little less steep than the walk up the Nan Bield Pass and doesn’t take particularly long to reach as there isn’t a lot of extra height to gain at this point (about another 100m or so from the Nan Bield Pass).

For me, the Harter Fell walk at this point is all about taking in the views from very slightly different angles to the peak. However, I do feel that the majority of ‘wow’ factor scenery has already happened. Though, the sense of completion at the top of Harter Fell is still great.

Once you reach the top, you’ll retrace your steps for this particular route. Don’t underestimate needing a good amount of time for the descent back to Mardale Head. Especially if the rocks are slippery from recent rainfall!

Key Highlights

Places to Swim: Small Water

The main place on the Harter Fell & Nan Bield Pass walk to swim is Small Water, which is about a third to just under half way along the trail to the Harter Fell summit.

It’s really easy to make this into a swim hike where you turn round at the lake and head back down.  

The walk to Small Water itself is incredible and gives the opportunity for a pretty remote tarn swim in the Lake District. If you are planning to do the walk to Small Water alone, this does reduce the amount of climbing quite significantly, but it’s still very much a moderate walk anyway.

If you plan to swim at Small Water, I’d recommend getting to the lake while the sun is on the lake. I’ve been at Small Water as the sun has gone behind the mountains and it can feel really cold, really quickly! It also gets pretty windy too as the mountains around it work like a bowl and make the wind billow around.

There are plenty of places to swim at Small Water. My favourite is actually from the left hand side once you approach the lake. There’s a really gentle entrance from there and it gives you some pretty iconic Lake District scenery to look at as you swim with the gorgeous mountains ahead of you.

The lake drops down to become quite deep very quickly in most spots, but from here, it is possible at certain times of year to feel some of the weeds from the lake bed.

Likewise, there are some really great spots just around the corner on the upper trail as you head up to Harter Fell from the lake. Pretty much anywhere there’s a path and entry along this lake is beautiful for a swim to be honest, and it’s great for beginners too.

Please also keep in mind that wild swimming in Haweswater itself is not allowed, so Small Water really is the main option on this remote Lake District hike.

Best Views & Photo Spots

This walk has a lot of big views to experience, and you don’t even need to have hiked that far before you get a real sense of the scale and the remoteness it has to offer.

As you head out from the car park and into the hills, you’ll be able to see evidence of the rewilding and tree plantation projects that RSPB Haweswater, who are based along the road you drove down, are working on in partnership with United Utilities. These are aimed in part at creating better filtration systems for the water reaching Haweswater (which is one of the biggest drinking water reservoirs for this area in Cumbria).

I actually worked on a documentary project with them a few years back, and it was really interesting to learn how things like the plantation of new trees on the hillsides of Haweswater can have a dramatic impact on the filtration of water, and water quality into the reservoir.

Speaking of water, the waterfalls before Small Water itself are gorgeous and well worth stopping to enjoy. You’ll get to see some really dramatic, clear pools if you look down.

The lake itself is stunning too, but I actually think the best Small Water photography is from along the Nan Bield Pass on the approach to Harter Fell.

The lake, from ground level, is too large to really capture in one shot, so heading up above it, in my opinion is where you’ll really see the views open out. You also get some pretty stunning views above Haweswater from here too.

You don’t need to go to the top of the pass to see the way the lake cuts into the landscape alongside Haweswater, but as you get to the top, the Nan Bield Pass views are pretty sublime!

This is also a good way to still capture the lake even if it’s fallen into shadow as the sun sets behind the mountains in front of it. If you do want the best chance to enjoy, and capture it from ground level, I’d recommend visiting earlier in the day, until a couple of hours before sunset whilst it’s still in the light.

As you reach the top of the Nan Bield Pass you also have the view down into Kentmere and along the Kentmere Horseshoe. Having this on one side and the view back down to where you came on the other, it really does make all the work to get there feel totally worth it.

Seasonal Differences

I’ve hiked this trail at different times of year, and one of the main themes that’s ever present is water.

It frames this landscape quite considerably: the lakes, the reservoir, the small streams, the waterfalls. Whilst this is beautiful to see (and hear) it does mean that you’ll have to cross water, or something submerged in water at some point in the hike. Whatever the weather.

In turn, there are quite a lot of areas where you could slip, so you need to keep your attention on the path quite a lot. There are also a lot of slimy rocks just under the surface of some of the stream crossings. Waterproof boots with good grip are a must on this hike.

In summer, after very minimal rain, the trail is much better. The dryness makes a huge difference with the speed you can walk (especially downhill). However, there is no shade at all on this hike, and the sun is pretty much straight onto you the whole way up, so it can feel pretty intense.

Toward the end of summer, you’ll likely notice just how much lower the water levels are in Haweswater than if you go at the beginning of summer. You might even get to see ‘the lost village’ of Mardale Green.

This was actually flooded in the 1930’s when the reservoir was created. There are some old structures visible at points, and this can actually be a pretty incredible thing to see.  

In winter, this can be an incredibly rewarding landscape to experience, but the Nan Bield Pass in winter is something that needs a lot of consideration and snow/ice experience. The amount of water on the trail can make it icy, so the right equipment really is needed, that’s if you can even reach the car park due to road conditions in the first place.

Harter Fell & Nan Bield Pass Walk from Mardale Head: Difficulty Breakdown

Technical difficulty

This isn’t a particularly technical hike; there’s no scrambling or other specialist skills needed to do it However, it is one of the more challenging Lake District hikes. This is partly due to its remote location, but also down to it’s rugged, sometimes difficult terrain.

The whole trail up is basically a big stair master. There is a little let up of this in sections, but mostly, its navigating stairs, which are uneven and can become extremely slippery. You also need to pay attention to slippery rocks under the water in stream crossings.

This whole landscape is carved and dictated by water. It feels like you’re pretty much always walking along water. There are also certain areas where the trail is breaking away and landslides have caused it to be less obvious in places.

Exposure

Whilst this is a hard mountain walk in the Lake District, there isn’t really much by way of exposure at any point. The trail cuts along the middle of the mountain and switchbacks up for the majority, so you never feel exposed.

This actually makes it a really good trail if you are feeling more cautious of heights, but really want that sense of isolation (and the stunning views) this walk provides.

Navigation

The actual Nan Bield Pass navigation on the way up from Mardale Head is relatively easy when you look at the map. There’s mostly just one trail without options for turn offs very often.

However, in reality, navigation can be a little more difficult than you first think. There’s a few places on the way up that feel really indistinct and it’s quite easy to find yourself drifting off the trail. There are also a few sections with landslide evidence which can make the actual path feel a bit confusing.

It isn’t too bad to have to course correct if you do drift off path in summer, but in winter, this can actually be pretty hazardous as areas off the trail can become incredibly slippery.

We’ve often found ourselves drifting off trail in places, and it’s never too long before we realise. It’s also never been an issue for us, but you do need to keep paying attention more than you might first realise.

Steepness

This is a steep Lake District walk, due to the fact that it’s pretty much a set of steps most of the way to the top of the Nan Bield Pass and Harter Fell. At first, the trail is fairly gradual as a path, and it’s when you start to turn the corner near the waterfalls that you really begin with the rugged steps.

From here, it doesn’t really stop until the lake, and then from the lake, it’s steeply uphill all the way to the top of the pass and Harter Fell. I do think that if you’re used to hiking mountains, you won’t find Nan Bield Pass difficulty out of your remit by any stretch, but its steepness does make it classed as a moderate to hard Lake District walk.

Why I Personally Love the Harter Fell & Nan Bield Pass Walk

I love remote Lake District scenery. I love rugged, quiet trails where it feels like the mountains just roll for miles and miles around you. From my experience, I would say this is one of the most iconic Eastern Lake District walks, and I’d do it again everyday if I could.

The views back down onto the Nan Bield Pass one way and the Kentmere Horseshoe on the other once you reach the top of the Nan Bield Pass and then Harter Fell take my breath away. It isn’t just the summit views that make it special though.

From the moment you set out, you’re immersed into a landscape that’s cut into shape by water. Be it waterfalls, streams or tarns. The trail just gets better and better. Its remoteness is part of its charm, and it’s one of the quiet Lake District hikes I find myself day dreaming about pretty regularly.

Harter Fell & Nan Bield Pass Walk from Mardale Head: Parking & Transport

Parking

The best (and really only) place to park to do this hike is the Mardale Head Car Park. This is at the very end of the road along the side of Haweswater Reservoir. From here, the trail is right in front of you.

You can find the car park easily on Google Maps by searching for Mardale Head Parking. There is no signal at all once you’re into this valley, so I’d recommend saving the location offline before you head there.

It is technically free to park there, but there is an honesty box system with a suggested donation of £2. If you’re able, it’s a really good way to help this car park be maintained.

The car park is decently sized, and can fit a good number of cars, and I’ve personally never had trouble finding a space. On hot, sunny days, you can expect it to be busier as many people will use it as a base to go down to Haweswater shore to cool off. At these times, I’d recommend going either earlier in the day or later in the afternoon.

When it is busier, you will probably see people parking along the roadside too when you arrive, this is generally the Haweswater parking people use when they’re doing some of the other walks in the area or trying to get down to the lake shore. I’d advise you try the main Mardale Head parking first before you try along the side of the road.

There are no facilities in this car park at all (it’s pretty basic), and there are also no bins, so you’ll need to take any rubbish, dog poop bags etc back out with you. 

Public Transport

Sadly, the Haweswater public transport options are extremely limited. There are no bus services that connect up to, or really go anywhere near to the Mardale Head Parking area.

The closest is one volunteer led bus service (the 111) that runs on Thursdays only. It goes as far as Burn Banks, which is still a 4.6 mile walk to the start of the trail. There is one drop off and pick up on the day it runs, and it wouldn’t give you enough time to do the walk, with the additional miles you’d need to cover anyway.

This bus service isn’t a service aimed at hikers, more the local community. Eastern Lake District bus routes in this area really are few and far between.

The closest option is to get to Penrith either by bus or train and then take a taxi the remainder of the way. This wouldn’t be particularly cheap (it could cost you as much as £30-40 there and back for the taxi section alone). So having access to a car is one of the only real ways you can actually get to this walk.

Harter Fell & Nan Bield Pass Walk: Route Extensions & Other Walks in the Area

There are some pretty great options to make the route longer, and can give the opportunity to take on some of the most iconic eastern Fells walking routes.

From the top of the Nan Bield Pass, it’s easy to add a High Street extension, and if you look at the map I’ve provided, you can see there are quite a few peaks that when you are up high, you can add on relatively easily.

There’re other options to use the Nan Bield Pass as a Kentmere Horseshoe connection including Mardale Ill Bell which is one of the most prominent peaks you’ll see from the top of the Nan Bield Pass looking down into the Kentmere valley.

Another option of course is to head down into the Kentmere valley. But this does make the logistics of getting there and back a little more complicated.

For transparency, I haven’t added any of these extensions to my Harter Fell from Mardale Head walk, so can’t comment on them first hand, but I do know they’re very well regarded routes in this same area. They’re on my never ending list of hikes I want to do!

Other Similar Walks You May Enjoy

If you love big mountain scenery, another idea you’ll love is the Old Man of Coniston walk. If you want to keep it quieter, you could opt for our Levers Water variation here, which I always find has far fewer people than the main route.

If you’re interested in hikes you can swim on, that are still more remote and a little off the main tourist trail, I’d recommend reading my guide to Tongue Pot too, which takes you to some of the most stunning, gin clear pools in Eskdale in the Western Lake District.

What to Bring on the Harter Fell & Nan Bield Pass Walk

This is a harder Lake District walk in a very remote valley. Weather can change very quickly in the higher fells.

Even on hot, sunny days, it can feel intense because the entire route is exposed; much the same as it does when the rain starts to pour. So, it’s best to be prepared for anything in terms of your gear.

This is a very loose list I’d recommend, depending on different times of year:

• Waterproof jacket (and waterproof pants depending on just how much rain is forecast). Usually, your waterproof jacket should act as a wind breaker too, but check this in advance if not sure
• Waterproof hiking shoes or boots: these are a must at any time of year as the streams along this walk and boggy land can keep the trail saturated and muddy
• Sweat wicking and easy to put on or take off layers. Warm layers are helpful here too, including an insulated mid layer or jacket
• Gloves and a hat (or a sun hat and sunglasses in summer)
• Hiking or trekking poles (if you find them helpful)
• Ice axe, crampons, spikes in winter (you can expect ice on the trail in colder conditions due to the wetter nature of the environment around it)
• Sunscreen
• Water and snacks
• Map saved offline: signal is non-existent here!
• Swimwear if you plan to swim at Small Water

I’d also recommend reading the guides on our sister site, This Expansive Adventure on what to wear hiking and our day hiking checklist. dedicated gear guides for all the essentials we’d recommend for hiking in the Lake District.

Why Trust Our Lake District Walking Guides

This Harter Fell & Nan Bield Pass walk guide has been written by someone who lives in the Lake District and is full of tips that you won’t find quite like it anywhere else. The aim with all our guides is to give you the information you actually need, including maps and the right level of detail to get you out and feel prepared.

When I write a Lake District walking guide, it means I’ve done the route multiple times, assessed it using my years of experience in the fells and spent time thinking in detail about what is actually important for you to know. The one you’ve just read is no different.

This just means the route will feel safer and you’ll better prepared. This has a better impact on you and the place you’re visiting, so it’s a win-win.